FAQ: What is Vitamin A (Retinol)

Retinol is a type of retinoid, which is a derivative of vitamin A. It is a fat-soluble compound that is naturally present in various foods, such as liver, eggs, and dairy products. Retinol is also used as an ingredient in many skincare products due to its potential benefits for the skin.

Retinol is known for its ability to promote cell turnover and stimulate the production of collagen, a protein that helps keep the skin firm and smooth. It is the most studied skincare ingredient and one of the only ingredients that have been proven with biopsy comparisons to stimulate collagen. It is considered an effective anti-aging ingredient as it can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots. Additionally, retinol can improve skin texture and tone, minimize pore size, and enhance the overall radiance of the skin.

When applied topically, retinol is converted into retinoic acid, which interacts with specific receptors in the skin cells. This process triggers various cellular mechanisms that promote skin rejuvenation. However, retinol can be potentially irritating to the skin, especially at higher concentrations, so it is advisable to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase its use to allow the skin to adjust. As a good rule of thumb, if the percentage of retinol is not listed on the label, it is a low concentration and most likely retinyl palmitate. If you have sensitive skin, start with a retinyl palmitate version of Vitamin A.

Retinyl palmitate is also derived from retinol (vitamin A alcohol) and palmitic acid. It is typically found in the form of a yellow-to-yellow-orange powder. When applied topically, retinyl palmitate is converted into retinol and then further metabolized into retinoic acid, the active form of vitamin A in the body.

The strongest form of Vitamin A is Tretinoin, which is usually prescription only depending on what country you live in. Retinol comes in concentrations from 0.01% to 1% over the counter. Start with a low percentage and move your way up to 1% if tolerated once the bottle is finished.

How to use Retinol:

1. Start slowly: If you're new to retinol, it's important to introduce it into your skincare routine gradually to allow your skin to acclimate to the ingredient. Begin by using it every other night or every two nights, and then gradually increase the frequency as tolerated by your skin.

2. Cleanse and dry your face: Before applying retinol, cleanse your face thoroughly with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. It's best to apply retinol to dry skin to minimize any potential irritation.

3. Apply a pea-sized amount: Take a small amount of retinol, about the size of a pea, and apply it to your fingertips. Gently dot the retinol onto your forehead, cheeks, chin, and nose.

4. Spread evenly: Using light, upward strokes, spread the retinol over your entire face. Avoid applying retinol too close to the eyes, as it can cause irritation. If desired, you can also extend the application to your neck and décolletage. Some eye creams contain retinol, avoid use if you have sensitive or dry eyes.

5. Moisturize: After the retinol has been absorbed into your skin, follow up with a moisturizer to help lock in moisture and minimize any potential dryness or irritation caused by the retinol. This is called the sandwich technique. Look for a gentle, hydrating moisturizer suitable for your skin type.

6. Protect your skin: Retinol can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun, so it's crucial to use sunscreen during the day. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high SPF and apply it generously to protect your skin from harmful UV rays.

7. Be consistent: Consistency is key when using retinol. It can take several weeks or even months to see noticeable improvements in your skin's texture and appearance. It's important to use retinol regularly and be patient with the results. Reduce days used if experiencing irritation, don't stop using. Reduce the percentage if experiencing continued irritation. Patients with dark skin or patients prone to hyperpigmentation have to be cautious with a high percentage of retinol, which can cause more hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation (unwanted light spots on the skin.)

8. Adjust as needed: If you experience significant irritation or redness, you may need to reduce the frequency of retinol application or switch to a lower concentration. It's always a good idea to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional if you have any concerns or questions about using retinol.

Remember, everyone's skin is different, so it's essential to listen to your skin and adjust your retinol routine accordingly.

It's important to note that retinol can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it is recommended to use it primarily at night and to wear sunscreen during the day. Additionally, pregnant women or those trying to conceive should consult with a healthcare professional before using retinol, as high doses of vitamin A derivatives can be harmful to the developing fetus.

Overall, retinol is a widely used ingredient in skincare due to its potential anti-aging and skin-rejuvenating properties. However, individual results may vary, and it is always a good idea to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional to determine the best approach for your specific needs.

My favorite retinols:

Low percentages: Paulas Choice

Medium percentages: Zo Retinol

High percentages: Prescription of Tretinoin 1%, Differin gel